This one actually happened to me in 1977, when trying to remove a waterpump on a 1935 Classic LaSalle (a slightly smaller version of the ultra-long hooded Cadillac) …this vehicle had the straight 8 motor and “suicide doors” The back seat area of this vehicle was so large that you could camp out.
Speaking of suicide doors; I nearly wanted to commit suicide after I got the final bill on this easy D-I-Y home-auto repair.
So Easy… The job: repair or replace the leaky waterpump. …step by step
Simply remove the “over the top-and-down-and-both-sides-hood” to allow one to release the tensions on the radiator shroud, and body-metal and then tip it forward. (about one hour)
Use normal Inch box wrenches and a little penetrating oil. (remember this was a 1935 LaSalle … and small amounts of rust may be expected)
Now, loosen the lower mounting bolt at the radiator base, at the frame, loosen the screws and clamps that secure the upper radiator return hose, and tip radiator forward just enough so as to allow working room to access the waterpump from the right and left side of the vehicle.
Loosen the large strap bolt on the generator to remove tension on the fan belt.
Loosen and Remove the bolts that hold the fan blade assembly from the shaft end-plate. Remove the fan. Set aside.
Remove each of the 4 nuts that secure the water-pump to the front face of the engine block..
One, uaahhhh-ung. OK, Two uaahhhh-ung. OK, Three uaahhhh-ung. OK, Four uaahhhh-snap!! Opps
!!! Yikes !! The entire nut and stud snapped off right below the forward-most face of the waterpump. OK. That’s cool, all of the other nuts are removed ..It’ll come off.
But wait. Can’t get the waterpump out of there. The radiator is actually completely in the way anyway. OK, remove the radiator. Which I did. Maybe I should have it flushed out? Ok …maybe later.
Ok, now pull the waterpump straight off, Done. OK hummmmm.
The leak has caused a kind of corrosion around each of the four studs and even a new gasket will likely leak. The correct answer will be to remove all 4 studs face off the port and face off the metal on the front plane of the motor-block. I can do this.
Remove studs 1, 2, AND 3. Now, for the broken stud. Humm. Oh yeah, this is where we use the vise grips.
Vise grips….hum let’s see…OK, seriously over-pressure the clamp, bite down on the stud, and turn counterclockwise. O, uaahhhh-snap!! Opps.
Now there is a totally flush broken-off piece of stud in the block. Well at least I can face off the front plane with a hand grinder. I am thinking I might just face it off…and put the waterpump assembly back with just 3 studs and it’ll be good enough.
I call my friend (a pro) No, he says it will just leak again …maybe worse.
So this is where I remember the “Easy-out” technology. I have used these before.
Seems good. So, I buy a decent drill bit, drill the proper sized hole. I insert the easy out and grab the appropriate small handle tool to use for the easy-out. Carefully, exerting the correct amount of exacting rotating pressure to turn the easy-out without any side torque, I turn. Of course it almost immediately snaps off!
OK. I can do this. I’ll just remove that easy-out and get a bigger one. Yeah Right.
So I drive (the other car) back to the auto supply shop and buy a one size larger hard-carbon drill bit.
Returning to the home garage shop, I carefully drill down the center of the first easy-out. Of course by now, it is just after noon and the sweat is pouring off my head into my eyes and I don’t notice that I have drilled right past the easy-out, past the water-jacket, until the drill gives way and charges inward about one inch. What has happened? Well, unbelievable! I have drilled right into the number-one cylinder chamber.
Called my “Pro” friend once again.
So, on Monday, I had the LaSalle towed over to the “pro” shop; they pulled the top-end off of the engine, pulled the pan and removed the #1 piston. They mounted A VERY LARGE BORING MILL on top of the motor, while the motor is still in the frame of the car. They bored-out the #1 cylinder 0.100” oversize, sleeved it and re-bored to size. They refitted the #1 piston, replaced all of the upper components, and the pan, and 1 week and $821.00 later, I had it towed home. I replaced all of the remaining parts I had removed, drove it around the block, and sold it the next month for a $500.00 loss.
Thomas Relth © 2007